Dec 09, 2013
TRIAC Family Tips
When changing motor brushes, clean the brush holders with a cotton swab and contact cleaner.
Worn brushes leave carbon dust behind which can cause new brushes to get stuck in the brush holder, shutting off the motor. If the motor shuts off while the tool is hot the element and mica tube could be damaged.
- If the TRIAC nozzle gets wet, do not heat it up fully right away.
This risks damage to the element and mica tube. Run the TRIAC cold for 10 minutes, and gradually raise the heat over the next ten minutes so that the moisture is safely blown off.
- If the filter at the back of the handle is plugged, air cannot flow through the tool.
This may appear to be a loss of heat, but it is actually a loss of air. If the tool is operated for a long time this way, the element may burn out. Periodically check that the filter at the rear of the handle is clean, and remove any blockage with a soft brush.
- At approximately 800 hours of running time the TRIAC 1A brushes should be changed.
If they are permitted to wear down to the end, the pressure spring behind the brush will contact the motor and destroy it. This requires the replacement of the motor.
The TRIAC S, PID & BT all have stops in the brushes which cause the motor to quit before the brush is completely worn down to the spring. This saves the motor from being destroyed.
- Not enough heat, but element is OK, the air intake at the handle is not plugged, and the motor sounds normal.
Check whether an extension cord is being used that is too long.
- The TRIAC BT heat dial illuminates, the tool cools down and does not heat.
The heat knob is designed to light up after a power interruption. Therefore if the TRIAC BT is plugged in while the power switch is turned on, the heat dial will light up and the TRIAC BT will not produce heat. To solve this problem turn down the heat, run the TRIAC BT until it blows cool air, switch it off, leave it plugged in and turn it back on again.
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